Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Alice Town, Bimini

Bright and early Monday morning (5:30) we headed out from Rodriguez Key, dodging lobster pot buoys in the dark.  Once we got out into deep water about the time it was getting light we started sailing.  The winds started going light after a few hours, and since Bimini was 70 miles away we motor-sailed for a while, and finally just motored.  The Gulf Stream was pretty calm, so we had a pretty easy crossing.  We did have some light rain in the afternoon, and a couple of hours of big rollers which made motoring rather uncomfortable.  Sue sighted land around 3:15, and we were tied up at a dock by 5:30.  By then it was too late to do all the paper work and clear Customs and Immigration.

With all our paper work in hand I arrived at the Customs office at 8:00 this morning.  They didn't know I was coming, so they didn't show up until after 8:30.  We had been worrying about not getting the 180 day cruising permit that we wanted (some people we only getting 90 days), or that we didn't have all the proper paper work to bring the cats into the country.  But things went without a hitch, and 15 minutes and $300 later I was on my way back to the boat.  After breakfast Sue and I walked into town to sight see.  We also bought a loaf of bread for $4, causing us to realize we might only be able to stay half as long as we had planned, or eat only half as much as we are used to.  One of the first things I noticed in the store, all the products are from the States.  Kellogg's, Ritz crackers, Oreo cookies, Clorox, Campbell's soups...  When I asked, the store owner said almost every thing came from the US.  And someone else told us if the cargo freighters missed a couple of weeks everyone would go hungry.

The cars drive on the "wrong" side of the road.  Gas is $5.20 a gallon.  There are as many golf carts as cars on the roads.  Virtually all of the cars are from the States, though some of the newer ones are right hand drive from Japan.  Every block or two there is a small food shop, and there are almost as many churches.  Two of the newer, more modern looking stores are the Alcoholic Beverage Controls.  One side of the island has the King's highway, while the other side of the island, a block away, has the Queen's highway.  Both are not much wider than one lane, and since there are no sidewalks to speak of, cars can't go very fast, and often need to stop or slow for on-coming traffic or walkers.

When we sat in Marathon for two weeks the barnacles and other sea creatures started taking up residence on our boat and dinghy.  The paddlewheel for the boat speed had quit spinning due to little barnacles so we didn't have speed through the water the last couple of days.  And the bottom of our dinghy was getting covered with grass and barnacles.  We had pulled the dinghy up on deck for the Gulf Stream crossing, so yesterday I scrubbed the bottom and pried off all the growth when we were crossing to Bimini.  Tonight we pulled the impeller out and chipped off all the growth so we will have boat speed tomorrow when we start heading across the Bahama Banks, and south.  Once again we expect to be out of touch for a while.
Bottom growth.

King's Highway.

Alice Town gas station.

17 years, still not finished, house using reclaimed local materials.
The builder/artist is renowned, local artist and author, Ashley Saunders.

8 Comments:

At January 8, 2011 at 11:01 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sue and Richard have not had connectivity to keep the blog updated. Somehow they can email me using their Kindle, but that's about it. If you want to be updated via email, please let me know and I'll add you to the group.

Chris (Sue's sister)

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:34 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update from Richard and Sue (1/6/2011 morning):
"Dear Chris Left Bimini yesterday morning. Had great sail all day. Due to weather forecast decided not to anchor on Bahamas Bank but to
sail overnight to Nassau. Worked out well. Arrived before sunrise so sailed around a bit to await daylight. Dropped anchor around 7. Will
nap for a while and then decide what we do next. This is from Kindle hence telegram style.
Might try for phone or phone card. Otherwise all is well."

Chris

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:36 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update from Sue and Richard (1/6/2011 about 8:42 PM):
"Yesterday morning we left Bimini, heading for Nassau. It’s about 120 miles, and we planned to do it in three days. Since we were having such a lovely sail, and since they were predicting high winds starting today and tomorrow, Sue thought maybe we should sail straight through. I like sailing at night so we kept going. Around midnight we started seeing lightning way off in the distance. There was so much, and for several hours - I tried to tell myself it was the Northern Lights. We never got any storms, but the winds started to build and we ended up reefing* to intentionally slow the boat down - a first for us. We didn't want to arrive before sunrise and have to enter the harbor in the dark. We anchored around 7 and then took a little nap.

Mid morning we decided to move the boat to a dock, partially to be closer to town, and partially because we didn't want to leave the boat unattended because of thefts. Almost every store and business has a security person. And almost every business has lock on the door which someone has to buzz open so you can get in. I don't think we'll stick around too long. But there is Dominos Pizza, Starbucks, Radio Shack, KFC, Dairy Queen, you name it... Also all the cruise ships come here.

We plan to see the sights tomorrow, and then head south on Saturday."

[*Chris' note: For you non-sailors following their blog/travels, reefing a sail reduces the area of the sail. With less sail, there's less for the wind to push, and you go slower. When the boat is no longer being blown way over, it's less of a white-knuckle ride. I think Richard meant it was a first for them this trip, as I've been on their previous boat when they've reefed the mainsail.]

Chris

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:39 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update from Richard and Sue (1/7/2011 about 10:47 PM):

1/6 (this arrived after I'd sent the update last night):
"More Nassau observations:
Almost no sidewalks, and crossing a road is quite an adventure.
On average foods cost twice as much as back home.
The marina adds $6 a day for water and charges 60 cents per kilowatt for electricity used.
The boat on one side has a couple who used to live close to us in Michigan. The boat on our other side has a couple from Russia.
All the people we've met have been very friendly, but both Bimini and Nassau have been littered with trash."

1/7:
"Chris,
First, it occurs to me if you don't mind doing it, you could copy and paste any trip reports we send you to the "Comments" section of our blog. That way anybody who has been following the blog can still keep up with our trip progress. [Chris' note: I'm skipping this for now.]

This morning we explored Nassau, along with all the people from all the cruise ships that stop in Nassau every day. The area of town by the cruise ship docks seemed a little more upscale, though I did find myself thinking that one part of town was a lot like I imagined Cuba would be like. We hiked up the Queen's Stairway, toured an fort built like a ship, and stopped at the Historical Society Museum. On the way back to the boat for lunch we found ice cream.

After lunch we did boat projects - Sue finished giving the deck a fresh water bath with some of our $6 worth of water. And it's not just us, the people on both sides of us were also doing boat projects.

Tonight we walked over to the Atlantis Resort to see the aquarium. If any of you are interested, rooms start at just over $300 a night, though you can spend up to $25,000 a night!! On the way we stopped for conch fritters sold at one of 20 or 30 little stalls grouped under the bridge which crosses back from Paradise Island. We also had ice cream again because we might not find it for another few weeks.

Tomorrow morning we are heading to Allen Cays - home of the iguanas. There are no people or buildings there so we will be out of touch for a few days."


Allen Cay, Exuma is a bit of a hike from Nassau. Wonder how long it'll take to get there? I suppose we'll have to wait - no telling if cell phones or their Kindle will work from there. I'm counting on their Spot gadget to keep me updated!

Hmm.. an island with no people (do no tour boats take people there?)... just sunshine, iguanas, palm trees and beach (I've wiped out the tour boat image from my mental picture.)

Dad and I looked up the population of the Bahamas - about 300,000 in 2009. Their currency is the Bahamian dollar, and looks like the exchange rate is about equal to the US dollar.

Cheers,
Chris

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:42 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update from Richard and Sue (1/8/2011 abt 4:17 PM):

Hello,

I was surprised to hear from Richard and Sue so soon. They are already at the Iguana Island (aka Allen's Cay). When I looked for the island on Google maps last night, it was way south of where they actually are. Now that I zoom in I see it's named New Cay, so Google's search is wrong. There are lots of little islands sprinkled from Allen's Cay to New Cay. Makes me wonder what the land looks like under the ocean... Anyway, the email I got at 3:42 today follows.

Chris

--------------

"Hi, Chris,

We are now anchored at Allens Cay with eight other boats. I'm sure more are on their way. One boat from France, one from Germany, several from Canada, and one from Kentucky. There are also two go-fast boats from Nassau with twenty or so tourists who came over for the day to see the iguanas. As soon as the iguanas heard the tour boats they came out on the beach to be fed.

Even though we've been gone over three months, we both sort of feel that this is really the start of our cruise, especially with all the foreign boats here. It is also the first we have anchored since leaving Florida."

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:45 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update 1/10/2011 8:04 AM:

Hi, everyone,

Here's an update that just missed getting into the update for 1/8:
"Update: We are now up to eleven boats, the latest from Texas and Mississippi. The iguanas have mostly left the beach since the tour boats left. The islands are uninhabited except for all the tourists. We talked with a family from the Netherlands (not France as we had thought) who were rowing by. They have been cruising since 2009."

Here's the latest from Richard from this morning about 7:30:
"We spent a delightful day exploring and enjoying Allens Cay. We met several of the iguanas, and
got some nice pictures. Earlier we made a viewing bucket which we used for the first time. We drifted over coral and fishes, and at one point a decent sized ray. We talked with other cruisers from several boats. And of course did a few boat projects - another attempt to fix the dinghy floor leak. Last night there were 17 boats in this
anchorage. This morning we are heading south."

And from Sue: " ... Today we are heading south,
probably to an island called Norman's Cay. It used to be used by a drug lord but no longer."

I hope they take pictures of the viewing bucket in use.. reminds me of the bosun's seat, which hangs from the top of the mast using one of the halyards, but can put the seatee in the water if under sail. Sometimes that's the point of it on hot days. :)

Chris

 
At January 15, 2011 at 3:48 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update 1/13/2011 3:44 PM:
Here's the latest from Sue and Richard. They are skipping down the island chain. I'm hoping when they finally get to the larger islands where more people live there will be wireless access so we can get an email update.

Chris

>>> 1/13/2011 3:33 PM >>>
Big Brother
Latitude:24.20858
Longitude:-76.47534
GPS location Date/Time:01/13/2011 15:33:21 EST

Message:Richard, Sue, Zimmie, and Fluff are all ok.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/45C5f/24.20858/\-76.47534

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=24.20858,-76.47534&ll=24.20858,-76.47534&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Big Brother

 
At January 15, 2011 at 4:06 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Update from Sue and Richard 1/15/2011 abt 4:00 pm:

"Greetings from Staniel Cay,

We have not had internet or Kindle access since I last emailed you and cell coverage has been poor as well, hence our lack of communication. Today we are near a settlement called Staniel Cay. The James Bond movie Thunderball was filmed there at Thunderball Grotto, which we hope to explore tomorrow. The weather has been quite windy (20-25 knots) which has meant little sleep as we keep an eye on the anchor. Luckily there have been no issues and we have been very careful to make sure the anchor is well set. We can see the anchor in ten to fifteen feet if we use our viewing bucket from the dinghy so we can tell if it has dug in.

We anchored at Normans Cay and explored a plane that was in about 5 feet of water. I got soaked on the ride over so I decided to have a salt water bath when we got back, with a fresh water rinse. It worked fine and I was able to check the boat bottom as well. There was minimal growth on it. At Exuma Land and Sea Park (Warderick Wells) we saw lots of corals and tropical fish with the viewing bucket and hiked around on the island. The island is made of very porous limestone that looks like Swiss cheese. It is hard to walk on as it is uneven and there are loose rocks and sinkholes. We saw Loyalist ruins and stone walls that did not seem to serve any purpose as well as some lovely beaches.

After Warderick Wells we had planned to go to Pipe Creek but the entrance is shallow and intricate so we decided to pass. We anchored at Sampson Cay instead. As Richard was checking the anchor at 3 AM he saw the mail and supply boat pass close by our boat, both as it came and went, luckily with no problems. We listened to music and community service announcements on the radio that included several obituaries, complete with long lists of surviving family members. We met a couple from Maryland who are friends of friends of friends of friends! (Richard figures that in three more steps we should be meeting Kevin Bacon!) We often see the same boats at one anchorage or another so we all must be traveling on similar schedules."

Chris

 

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